Hogs and Hens Urban Farm

Author: Admin Istrator

We Have A Bad Bunny
Let’s talk about a bad bunny.

No… not the one who lit up the Super Bowl stage last February.
I’m talking about the kind of bad bunny that quietly drains your feed bill. It doesn’t give much back to the homestead.

If you’re building a permaculture-based homestead or even a small backyard production system, this is a conversation we need to have honestly — and with a little humor.

Because sometimes the sweetest, fluffiest rabbit on the place…
is actually a bad investment.

Alice isn’t a bad bunny, but she is definitely a pet, not a food source.

Meet Alice: adorable, sweet… and a bad bunny

Alice is a Lionhead/Angora mix rabbit.

She is:
- ridiculously cute
- soft as a cloud
- quiet
- gentle
- easy to handle
In every way, she’s lovely.

So why on earth would I call her a bad bunny?

Because not every rabbit is meant to be a meat rabbit. And not every animal belongs in a production system.

Alice is tiny. Harvesting her for meat would be incredibly inefficient. As a fiber rabbit, she also falls short for our needs. It takes a lot of rabbit fiber to make usable yarn — and even more to offset feed costs. For a working homestead that uses a permaculture approach, she doesn’t produce enough yield. Therefore, breeding her for production is not justified.

Alice is not livestock here.
Alice is a pet.

She’s a rescue bunny, the last one left when another rabbit keeper stepped away from raising rabbits. She landed here because she needed a home — not because we needed production.

And that distinction matters.

Breed selection matters in permaculture livestock systems

In permaculture, we design with needs and yields in mind.

Every animal on a homestead should ideally:
- meet a need
- produce multiple yields
- fit within the system
- support soil health
- justify its inputs
If the needs of the animal far outweigh the yields it provides, then that animal has shifted from livestock to pet. And there’s nothing wrong with pets — but we must be honest about the role they play.

This is where many new homesteaders struggle. They fall in love with a cute animal first and ask production questions later.

When building a regenerative system, it has to be the other way around.

Why rabbit breed selection is critical

Alice likes to rub her face in her hay.

Rabbits can be one of the most efficient livestock choices for small-scale permaculture systems. They:
- reproduce quickly
- grow fast
- require little space
- produce high-quality manure
- convert feed into protein efficiently
But only if you start with the right breeds.

Choosing the wrong rabbit for meat production is like planting a peach tree when you really needed a shade tree. It might still be lovely — but it doesn’t serve the function you designed for.

A quick reality check

If your primary goal is manure only, almost any rabbit will do.

But if manure is the only meaningful output?
That animal is functioning as a pet with benefits — not true livestock.

In a permaculture system, we aim for stacked functions and multiple yields.

That’s where proper breed selection comes in.

Best rabbit breeds for meat production

If you’re raising rabbits for meat within a permaculture homestead, there are three breeds that consistently stand out.

New Zealand rabbits

The gold standard of meat rabbits.
- Rapid growth rate
- Kits reach 5–6 lbs in 10–12 weeks
- Excellent mothers
- Calm temperament
- Efficient feed conversion
They come in white, red, and black varieties and are widely used because they simply perform well.

Californian rabbits

Often considered the second pillar of meat rabbit production.
- Muscular, blocky body
- Fast growth
- Excellent carcass quality
- White coat with dark points (ears, nose, feet)
- Calm and manageable
Californians are a cross of Himalayan and Chinchilla ancestry and were designed specifically for meat production.

Silver Fox rabbits (our choice)

Our homestead chose the Silver Fox — and for good reason.

Silver Fox rabbits are a large, dual-purpose breed that align beautifully with permaculture principles.

They provide:
- substantial meat production
- beautiful, usable hides
- gentle temperament
- strong mothering instincts
- efficient feed conversion
But what really sold me?

Stacked yields.

Why we chose Silver Fox rabbits for our permaculture system

Permaculture teaches us to design systems where every element serves multiple functions.

With our Silver Fox rabbit colony, we receive:
- Meat for our family
- Nutrient-dense manure for the garden (cold manure — can go straight on beds)
- Hides for tanning and warm clothing
- Bones for broth
- Scraps for dog food
- Bone meal for soil health
Nothing wasted.

One of the core permaculture principles is:
Produce no waste.

A well-managed rabbit colony is one of the clearest examples of this principle in action.

Compare that to a small, low-yield rabbit that consumes feed but produces very little meat or fiber. Suddenly you can see why Alice — sweet as she is — simply doesn’t belong in the production plan.

The difference between pet rabbits and production rabbits

This is where many homesteaders feel guilty, so let’s say it plainly:

Not every animal needs to be productive.
But every production system needs clarity.

Alice is loved. She is safe. She is cared for.
She is not bred. She is not part of the meat program.

She is a pet — and that’s perfectly fine.

But when building a permaculture homestead, livestock must be chosen intentionally. Otherwise feed bills rise, space gets tight, and systems become inefficient quickly.

A “bad bunny” isn’t a bad animal.
It’s simply an animal that doesn’t match the system’s purpose.

Rabbit colony biosecurity: protecting your investment

Once you’ve chosen the right meat rabbit breeds — whether New Zealand, Californian, or Silver Fox — protecting that colony becomes critical.

Rabbit biosecurity is often overlooked, but disease can wipe out a colony quickly if precautions aren’t taken.

Core rabbit biosecurity practices

1. Closed colony whenever possible
Avoid constantly bringing in new rabbits. Each new animal introduces disease risk.

2. Quarantine new rabbits
Any new rabbit should be quarantined for at least 30 days before joining your colony.

3. Clean, dry housing
Rabbits are extremely sensitive to ammonia and dampness.
Good ventilation is non-negotiable.

4. Separate shoes and tools
Use dedicated footwear or boot dips for rabbit areas, especially if visiting other farms.

5. Rodent control
Wild rodents spread disease and contaminate feed.

6. Clean feeders and waterers regularly
Biofilm buildup spreads illness quickly in colonies.

7. Observe daily
Loss of appetite, lethargy, nasal discharge, or diarrhea should be addressed immediately.

8. Limit unnecessary visitors
Well-meaning friends who also keep rabbits can unintentionally carry pathogens.

In a permaculture system, biosecurity protects not just the rabbits — but your food supply, soil fertility, and overall homestead stability.

The permaculture lens: needs vs yields

Every time we add an animal to the homestead, we should ask:
- What does this animal need?
- What does it produce?
- Do the yields justify the inputs?
- Does it serve multiple functions?
- Does it support soil health?
Silver Fox rabbits check every box for us.

Alice does not.

And that’s okay.

Because permaculture isn’t about eliminating joy — it’s about designing systems that sustain life without burning us out.

Alice reminds us that not every creature has to be productive to be valuable.
But when it comes to building resilient food systems, breed selection matters.

So yes…
while Alice is sweet, soft, and deeply loved…

In terms of production and scale?
She’s absolutely a bad bunny.
April 12, 2026
What in the World is a Lash Egg?
Photo by cottonbro studio on Pexels.com

Alright friend. Let’s talk about something that’s been coming up a lot lately.

If you’re in any chicken group right now, you’ve probably seen it too.

Photos. Questions. Panic posts.

“Is this a lash egg?”
“What is this rubbery thing my hen laid?”
“Help — what do I do?”

I don’t know if it’s the season, stress from weather swings, biosecurity gaps, or just more backyard flocks than ever before… but I am seeing a noticeable rise in lash egg cases being shared across social media.

So let’s slow this down.
Let’s get educated.
And let’s handle this correctly in gloves — because this is not just a weird egg situation.

This is a serious reproductive infection.

What Is a Lash Egg?

A lash egg is not an egg at all.

It is a solid mass of pus, inflammatory tissue, bacteria, and debris that forms inside a hen’s oviduct when she develops an infection called salpingitis.

Instead of forming a normal egg, her body walls off the infection. That infected material builds up, hardens, and eventually gets expelled.

It’s the body trying to survive.

When you see a lash egg, it means the infection has already been present for some time.

This is not a surface issue. This is internal.

What It Looks Like

Lash eggs can vary, but they are usually:
- Rubbery or firm
- Layered or ridged
- Misshapen
- Tan, yellow, cream, or even slightly greenish
- Often foul smelling when broken open
- Sometimes encased in a thin membrane
- Sometimes completely solid all the way through
They are not smooth like a normal egg.
They do not have a typical shell.
And they absolutely should not be mistaken for a “weird egg day.” In fact, if you encounter a lash egg, immediate sterilization practices should happen.

Why This Happens

Salpingitis (the infection that causes lash eggs) is most commonly associated with:
- E. coli bacterial infection
- Previous egg binding
- Internal laying
- Vent trauma
- Poor ventilation in the coop
- Damp litter
- High ammonia levels
- Stress (heat, cold snaps, predator pressure)
- Overproduction from heavy laying breeds
- Age-related reproductive decline
Sometimes the bacteria travel upward from the vent.
Sometimes they spread internally from other infections.
Sometimes they take advantage of a hen whose immune system is already compromised. Chickens do a really good job of hiding their illnesses. This is why it is important to check on your livestock daily.

And once bacteria enter that reproductive tract, it can spread quickly.

This Infection Is Contagious

I need to be very clear here.

The bacteria that cause salpingitis — especially E. coli — can spread within your flock through:
- Fecal contamination
- Shared nesting boxes
- Dirty bedding
- Waterers contaminated with droppings
- Egg residue
- Handling without proper sanitation
If one hen produces a lash egg, assume your coop has been exposed.

Do not treat this casually.

Immediate Steps — Do This Right Away

1. Isolate the Hen

Move her to a clean, dry, well-ventilated space away from the flock.

Quiet. Warm. Low stress.

Isolation protects the rest of your birds and allows you to monitor her closely.

2. Wear Gloves — Properly

This is not optional.

Use disposable nitrile or latex gloves when:
- Handling the lash egg
- Cleaning nesting boxes
- Handling the sick hen
- Removing bedding
- Scrubbing surfaces
Proper glove protocol:
- Put gloves on before entering isolation or infected coop areas.
- Do not touch your phone, face, or door handles while wearing contaminated gloves.
- Remove gloves by turning them inside out.
- Dispose of them immediately in a sealed trash bag.
- Wash hands thoroughly with soap and warm water. I recommend using a gentle brush to be sure to remove contamination risk.
Do not reuse disposable gloves ever.
Do not “just rinse your hands off.”
Do not skip handwashing because “it was quick and I don’t think I touched anything.”

This bacteria spreads easily and can make you and your flock very sick.

3. Remove and Dispose of the Lash Egg

Do not:
- Feed it to animals
- Compost it
- Toss it in an open trash bin
Seal it in a bag and dispose of it securely.

If broken open, sanitize the area immediately.

Deep Clean the Coop — Thoroughly

This is where many people fall short.

You cannot simply “add fresh bedding.”

You need to reset the environment.

Step-by-Step Sanitation Protocol:
1. Remove all bedding completely. Don’t compost it, you don’t want to spread infection.
2. Scrape off droppings from roosts, nesting boxes, and walls.
3. Sweep out dust and debris.
4. Wash surfaces with hot soapy water first.
5. Then disinfect.
Effective disinfectants include:
- Diluted bleach solution (1:10 ratio)
- Veterinary-grade disinfectants
- Hydrogen peroxide-based cleaners
Let surfaces stay wet with disinfectant for the full contact time listed on the label.

Then allow the coop to fully dry before adding new bedding. This is very important.

Moisture breeds bacteria.
Dryness is your ally.

Don’t Forget These Areas
- Nesting box pads
- Egg collection baskets
- Waterers (scrub and disinfect daily during outbreak)
- Feeders
- Roost bars
- Door handles
- Boots worn inside coop
- Gloves storage area
If you wear specific “coop boots,” disinfect those too.

Biosecurity isn’t just for commercial farms. It’s for backyard flocks too.

Monitor the Flock

Watch for:
- Decreased egg production
- Soft-shelled eggs
- Swollen abdomen
- Lethargy
- Tail down posture
- Straining
- Discharge from vent
If multiple hens begin showing symptoms, veterinary guidance is strongly recommended.

Can the Hen Recover?

Sometimes.

Mild cases caught early may be able to heal with antibiotics from a veterinarian.

However, many lash egg cases indicate chronic infection.

Some hens may:
- Continue producing lash material
- Stop laying permanently
- Decline gradually
- Become septic
This is where hard homestead decisions sometimes come in.

Compassion and realism must coexist. If your hen is not healing and is suffering, humane culling is the best answer. This bird should NOT be consumed.

Prevention Moving Forward

You cannot eliminate all risk, but you can drastically reduce it.

Improve Ventilation

Ammonia buildup damages respiratory tissue and weakens immunity.

Fresh air is critical — even in winter.

Keep Bedding Dry

Moist litter is a bacterial playground.

Stir daily.
Spot clean frequently.
Replace completely on schedule. If using a deep litter method, add fresh, dry bedding regularly.

Clean Waterers Frequently

Chickens love to backwash.

Scrub with hot soapy water.
Disinfect weekly.
More often during illness.

Support Immune Health
- High-quality balanced feed
- Access to clean greens
- Reduced stress
- Avoid overcrowding
- Rotate run areas if possible
Stress lowers immunity.
And bacteria take advantage of stress to flourish.

A Gentle But Honest Note

If you’re seeing lash eggs popping up across your feed, it’s not coincidence.

We are in a time where more people are raising chickens — which is beautiful.

But more birds means more biosecurity gaps. More new chicken owners means an opportunity to learn and teach.

Sometimes we love our flocks but underestimate how serious sanitation must be.

This isn’t fear-based farming.

This is responsible stewardship.

Final Thoughts

If one of your hens lays a lash egg, do not panic.

But do act quickly.

Isolate.
Glove up.
Sanitize.
Deep clean.
Monitor.

And remember — healthy flocks don’t happen by accident.

They happen because someone is paying attention.

And if you’re here reading this?

You’re paying attention.

That matters.
April 12, 2026
Embracing Slow Changes for Lasting Growth
We worked hard to build this area into a willow guild but didn’t realize it was destroying our sewer lines. The lines were not observed when it was planted before we bought the house.

There’s this moment most of us have had.

You get inspired.
You see the vision.
You’re ready to change everything—your garden, your soil, your habits, your food, your life.

And then… a few weeks later, you’re overwhelmed, behind, and wondering why something that felt so exciting suddenly feels so heavy.

I’ve been there too.

And what I’ve learned—both in the garden and in life—is this:

Fast change burns you out.
Slow change builds something that lasts.

Nature Doesn’t Rush—And That’s Not an Accident

If you’ve ever watched a piece of compacted clay soil slowly turn into rich, living earth, you already understand this.

It doesn’t happen overnight.

You don’t throw compost on it once and suddenly have perfect soil. Though it would be really nice to dream about.
You layer. You observe. You adjust. You wait.
Then you do it again with consistency.

That’s how ecosystems are built.

And here’s the truth most people skip over:

Permaculture isn’t about doing more. It’s about doing the right next thing, consistently.

In fact, using slow gradual changes is actually one of the principles of permaculture!

Not everything at once.
Not perfectly.
Just… intentionally.

Why Slow Changes Actually Work (When Fast Ones Don’t)

Let’s be real—fast change feels productive.

But slow change is what actually sticks.

Here’s why:

1. Your System Has Time to Respond

Our first year planting in ground was a year for learning. We didn’t add enough soil, compost or mulch. We didn’t use enough cardboard, but we observed each challenge and slowly made changes to create a better garden!

Whether it’s your soil, your garden layout, or your daily routine—everything is a system.

When you make one small change, you can actually see what it does.
- Add compost → watch moisture retention improve
- Introduce mulch → observe weed pressure drop
- Shift planting timing → notice growth differences
If you change ten things at once, you don’t know what worked.

And if you don’t know what worked, you can’t repeat success.

5 years later, the soil is rich, deeply composted, and fertile

2. You Reduce Overwhelm (and Actually Follow Through)

Let’s talk honestly for a second…

Most people don’t fail because they’re lazy.
They fail because they tried to do too much, too fast.

Slow change gives your brain space to keep up.

Instead of:
- “I need to build raised beds, start compost, plant everything, fix my soil, and install irrigation…”
You shift to:
- “Today, I’m starting a compost pile.”
That’s doable.
That’s sustainable.
That builds momentum.

3. You Build Resilience Instead of Dependency

Quick fixes often rely on outside inputs. We live our life trying to consume less and keep our systems as closed loop as possible.

Slow systems build strength from within. Having a closed loop system means less trips to town, less fuel used, less waste generated (packaging) and lets be honest, it feels really good to know where your food comes from!
- Compost instead of synthetic fertilizer
- Mulch instead of constant watering (chipdrop.com is a way to get free mulch!)
- Diversity instead of monoculture because diversity creates strength
You’re not just fixing a problem—you’re building a system that prevents the problem next time.

The Real Magic: Learning How to Pivot

Here’s where slow change becomes powerful.

Because when you move slowly…

You can adjust.

And that’s everything.

Gardening (and honestly, life) isn’t about getting it perfect the first time.
It’s about reading what’s happening and responding. I once planted the most beautiful crop of watermelons too close to a fence. I had not accounted for the shade the fence would be casting on the melons, and because of that, they didn’t get the sunlight they needed to thrive. If I had taken the time to actually map the sun across my yard, I would have seen the issue, but I was so excited to have such strong seedlings, I absolutely skipped the observation phase initially.

Practical Ways to Pivot as You Go

Let’s make this real and usable.

🌿 Observe First, React Second

Before you “fix” anything, ask:
- What is the soil telling me? Are the weeds telling you what your soil needs?
- Where does water naturally sit or run? Seriously look outside when it is raining. Watch where the water moves, and figure out where it absorbs, where it pools, and where it simply runs away.
- Which plants are thriving without help? These are rockstars and will help you plan good companions for these anchor plants.
Observation saves you time, money, and energy. In the case of my first attempt at Sugar Baby watermelons, it would have saved me some heartbreak at the realization they wouldn’t be able to get enough sun to fully ripen,

🌱 Make One Change at a Time

This is your golden rule.

Instead of overhauling everything:
- Add compost to one bed
- Trial a new mulch in one area
- Test a companion plant pairing in a small section
Then watch.

Let the garden give you feedback. You don’t want to spread an entire load of aged manure on your whole garden, only to realize it has residual herbicides that remained. I’ve seen it happen, and it is heartbreaking.

Nature doesn’t create an ecosystem overnight.

🌼 Use “Test Zones” in Your Garden

You don’t need perfection—you need information.

Create little experiment areas:
- One section with heavy mulch
- One with light mulch
- One with different mulch
See what performs best in your space.

That’s better than any generic advice online. I see many gardeners using straw in their garden, but we have had nothing but bad luck when we have used it. I’m not saying straw is bad as a mulch source, I’m saying that it is not a good choice for THIS homestead. I learned that by observation.

🍂 Adjust Based on Results, Not Expectations

This one can be humbling.

Sometimes what should work… doesn’t.

And that’s okay.

If something isn’t thriving:
- Move it
- Amend differently – It has taken me 2 years to get my peach trees looking healthy after a peach leaf curl fungus infected our trees.
- Replace it with something better suited
Pivoting isn’t failure.
It’s how you refine your system.

🌻 Stack Small Wins

Instead of chasing big transformations, look for small improvements:
- Soil holds moisture better than last month
- Fewer weeds than last season
- One crop that did really well
These are signals you’re on the right path.

And over time?

Those small wins compound into something incredible.

What This Looks Like in Real Life

On our farm, we didn’t transform our soil overnight.

We started with heavy clay. Compacted. Lifeless.

We didn’t fix it in a season.

We:
- Added compost (even when it wasn’t perfect)
- Mulched with what we could get for free
- Used what we had—cardboard, leaves, wood chips, shredded paper
- Let time and biology do their work
And slowly…

That soil came alive. I look back at the days of digging out bricks, and rocks as we started the garden, and it is honestly hard to believe this soil was once so beige and…dead. I grab a handful of soil now and it is rich and nearly black.

Not because we rushed it. Especially after our car accident, nothing is rushed. If anything, we slowed down even more and the changes became more gradual out of physical necessity.

But because we stayed consistent. Because we consistently fed our soil exactly what it told us it needed.

Slow Change Builds Confidence

There’s something else that happens when you work this way.

You start trusting yourself.

Because you’re not guessing anymore—you’re learning.

You see:
- What works in your space
- What doesn’t
- What needs adjusting
And that confidence?

That’s what turns a beginner into someone who knows what they’re doing. I used to say I had a black thumb. My mother and grandparents were blessed with green thumbs. I realized later, I just wasn’t giving the plants what they needed. When I finally started to actually observe them, I realized the sky was the limit to what I can grow.

Final Thoughts: Give It Time (and Give Yourself Grace)

If you take nothing else from this, take this:

You don’t need to do everything today.

You just need to take the next step.

Slow change isn’t about doing less—it’s about doing things in a way that actually lasts.

So start where you are:
- Add the compost
- Plant the seed
- Observe what happens
And when something doesn’t go as planned?

Good.

That’s your opportunity to pivot, adjust, and build something even better.

Regenerating earth, one backyard at a time… doesn’t happen overnight.
But it does happen—beautifully—when you let it unfold the way nature intended.

If you are wanting even more advice on building an abundant garden, check out my new book Growceries available HERE on amazon!
April 11, 2026
The Power of Diversity in Permaculture: Creating Nature’s All-Star Growth Team
Imagine building a soccer team where every player is a goalie. Sure, no one would score against you, but no one would score for you either. In permaculture, much like soccer, every team member has an important role to play. For nature, diversity isn’t just helpful — it’s crucial. This concept of species diversity is one of the core pillars that make permaculture ecosystems not just survive but thrive.

This was the beginning of our annual garden in 2022. Notice the marigolds with tomatoes? We have added so much diversity since then!

Why Species Diversity Matters

Permaculture systems mimic natural ecosystems, and in natural ecosystems, no one plant (or animal) does all the heavy lifting. Different species play unique roles that together create a balanced, resilient environment. Diversity is what keeps things humming along efficiently, no matter what curveballs nature throws.

Here are some key benefits species diversity brings to permaculture:
1. Pest Control: Diverse plants attract diverse insects, and that’s a good thing. Predatory insects keep pest populations in check. For instance, ladybugs feast on aphids, and parasitic wasps target caterpillars. Monocultures (single-crop systems) act like an all-you-can-eat buffet for pests. But in diverse systems, pests have a harder time gaining the upper hand. The more variety in any growing area, the less pest pressure you will find! I go into further explanation in Season 1 Episode 8.
2. Improved Soil Health: Different plants interact with soil in unique ways. Legumes like clover, beans, and peas fix nitrogen, while deep-rooted plants like comfrey and dandelion mine nutrients from deep in the soil. Together, they cycle nutrients efficiently, improving fertility and structure. Planting diversity has tremendously helped us improve our soil while the food forest is growing and maturing. Learn more about soil types in Season 1 Episode 29 of our podcast.
3. Resilience to Disease: Plant diseases often spread rapidly in monocultures because pathogens encounter the same susceptible host over and over. Diverse plantings break this cycle, limiting the spread of disease and minimizing crop loss. This is how we are able to avoid many of the common diseases that other gardeners face.
4. Microclimate Management: Tall trees provide shade for delicate undergrowth; shrubs protect wind-sensitive plants; ground covers stabilize the soil. A mix of plant heights, leaf structures, and root depths creates a dynamic environment that buffers extreme conditions. By planting things very meticulously in the beginning, I am able to avoid having additional work later down the road. A perfect example of this is that you will never find us covering plants with shade cloth. Anything that requires partial shade simply gets planted below something that will provide natural shade.
5. Pollination Power: Flowering plants that bloom throughout the year keep pollinators like bees and butterflies fed and active. This benefits the entire ecosystem and improves fruit and seed production. Plus, lets be honest… seeing loads of beautiful butterflies, hummingbirds, and other beautiful creatures just makes the growing experience even better!
Designing for Diversity

Permaculture design encourages diversity through thoughtful plant selection, guild planting, and strategic layering. Here’s how these principles come to life:
1. Guild Planting: Think of a guild as a well-orchestrated band. Each plant has a role: some fix nitrogen, some repel pests, and some provide shade or mulch. A classic example is the “Three Sisters” system: corn provides structure for climbing beans, beans fix nitrogen in the soil, and squash sprawls along the ground to suppress weeds and maintain soil moisture.
2. Polycultures: Instead of planting neat rows of the same crop, permaculture gardens combine multiple species. For instance, planting basil among tomatoes repels pests, while marigolds deter nematodes. The result? Healthier plants and tastier tomatoes! Check out this fantastic resource for planning your companion planting this year!
3. Succession Planting: In diverse systems, plants mature at different rates. Fast-growing radishes can be sown among slower crops like carrots or onions. The radishes are harvested early, leaving space for the slower plants to expand. This allows you to grow more food in the same space while the soil is never left bare. It is important to mention that when succession planting, make sure to top dress your space with some good quality compost after you harvest. This allows the soil to be “recharged” and ready for the next round of crops to be sown.
Real-Life Example: Regenerating Clay Soil with Diversity

Clay soil can be a challenge — it’s dense, compacts easily, and often struggles with drainage. Here in our Ohio garden, our native soil is almost entirely hard clay soil with little nutrition. But with strategic planting, it’s possible to unlock its potential. In fact, our property is a prime example of these practices working!
- Deep-rooted plants like daikon radish or chicory break up compacted soil, improving aeration.
- Nitrogen-fixing species like vetch or clover boost fertility.
- Mulch providers such as comfrey improve soil structure when cut and laid as mulch.
By combining these species, you create a diverse root system that opens up pathways for air and water while feeding beneficial fungi and microbes. Over time, this unlocks the clay’s hidden richness and transforms it into healthy, fertile soil.

Remediating Glyphosate-Contaminated Soil with Diversity

Glyphosate, a common herbicide, can hinder soil health by reducing microbial diversity and binding essential nutrients. The solution? Bring in plants that naturally assist in bioremediation.
- Sunflowers are champions at absorbing toxins from the soil.
- Mustard plants help break down harmful compounds while enriching the soil with organic matter.
- Mycorrhizal fungi form symbiotic relationships with plants, improving nutrient absorption and accelerating soil recovery.
Planting these species together creates a natural cleanup crew that steadily repairs damaged soil. It is important to mention that plants used as a trap crop for residual pesticides and herbicides should NOT be composted. These materials can then be leached into your garden which would negate the effects of your hard work!

Embracing Nature’s Variety

In permaculture, diversity is more than just a buzzword — it’s the secret ingredient that makes gardens, food forests, and landscapes more productive and resilient. Diversity is something that we work very hard every day to maintain at our farm. By embracing nature’s blueprint for variety, you create an environment that nurtures itself, resists pests and disease, and thrives in the face of change.

So, the next time you’re planting your garden, remember: Mother Nature doesn’t rely on a one-player team. She fields an entire roster of specialists, and they all deserve a spot on your soil’s starting lineup.

Wanting to get started on your own garden? Check out this article for 9 Gardening Tips for Beginners!
March 18, 2025